7/31/16 Ice, Ice, Baby

Another road, another wonder.

Richardson highway, both ways was Jules' birthday treat. We made a day out of a 180 mile ride, and what a great day it was. The road to Valdez is indeed one of the wonders of the world.

Winding our way through the mountains, we were immediately sucked into the landscape. Following the famed Alaskan pipeline, we climbed hills and sluiced into valleys, just like the black gold running in the pipe alongside us. Smoking glacial rivers ran with us too.

The first glacier of the day, Worthington, grew in our sights, spreading to the highway. Waterfalls spewed down the mountainside, as glacial melt brought streams to capacity. Constant road building keeps these waters at bay, for the moment. Not being a geologist or climate specialist, it troubles me greatly as to the massive melt from these glaciers. So much has changed already, with rivers making new roads and roads fighting rivers. The impact is obvious.

The Thompson Pass, though not as high as some we have taken, still filled us with excitement. Stopping for a break, we realized the temperature had dropped dramatically, so we layered on more clothes, plus our rain suits as it looked like we were riding into the some weather. Cold and wet do not make for a pleasant experience. Improved roads gave us the right away to fly to the top, but the weather had different ideas. Misting rain turned to dense fog as we literally took off into the clouds.

Rising over the top, we began the descent to Valdez and it was like coming in for a landing. The fog dissipated and mountains slowly began to appear. The Valdez Glacier ran along with us, adding more flavor to this already tasty day. Then, totally unaware, we were drawn into a deep canyon, enclosing us in its splendor. Through miles of carved rock and turbulent rivers, we ran the road past the Alaskan Pipeline Terminal and into Valdez, our halfway point for the day, and the end game for oil that travelled the many miles from Prudhoe Bay.

Surrounded by the Chugach mountains, the Port of Valdez gained importance for its year round ice-free access. We reached the end point of the Richardson Highway at the ferry terminal. Surrounded by the smooth waters of the fjord and the cloud frosted mountains that morphed constantly, we celebrated being alive. Consumed by our surroundings, road warriors that we are, the three of us took leave to sit quietly and let the pure mist off the Prince William Sound enrich us. 

Although we had a preview to the return trip, it was just as entertaining. Canyons, waterfalls and glaciers in reverse reinvented our ride. Warm sun rode us into Copper Center where we put the brakes on and unloaded for the night.

Shying from the spotlight, Jules prefers a private birthday. There could have been no better gift than  this day of a wild and isolated ride through paradise. And so today we celebrate, just as we have celebrated before. It's not the years, but the days that count, and we are planning to use all of them to the max!

 

Morning mountains

Worthington 

Horsetail Falls 

Caution! Falling Rock!

Two for the road

The pipeline followed us all the way

Valdez Glacier

A big fish

Valdez

Birthday magic

This is where we are

The Alaskan Pipeline Terminal

Glacial runoff

Magnificent falls

Rascal loves the mountains

Alaskan landscape

7/30/16 Wrangell-ing on the Range

We were certainly put in our place today! 

Reluctantly leaving Girdwood, we waved good-bye to the many happy dogs that wander freely around the town. Instantaneously, the swarm of traffic heading to and from Anchorage surrounded us and Jules carefully maneuvered through four lanes. Exhaling deeply as we gradually wrangled our way out of the mess, we headed into a totally different Wrangell.

The Old Glenn Highway presented us with the opportunity to get off the main road and escape the snarl of Wassilla. Winding through dense forests, contouring the Knik River, this sideway was made for motorcycles. Not frequented by many RV's, we were free to fly. An odd deep green color, this glacial water provides yet another spot for sport fishing. 

At Palmer we were back on the (new) Glenn Highway and what a fine road it was! The Wrangell Mountains, part of the largest National US Park, pulled us upward, as we tracked along twirling inclines that paralleled the range and the Matanuska River. Uninhibited by traffic, Rascal raced up the inclines, conquered the summits and roller coasted into the valleys. 

The temperature cooled as we rose in elevation and then, splayed in front of us was a huge glacier, staggering in its vivid purity. At 27 miles long and four miles wide, the Matanuska Glacier is the only one in the US accessible by car (or motorcycle). As we gaped in awe, straining to see yet more views of this beauty, another miracle rose slowly in front of us. With volcanic peaks comprising the Wrangells, Mt. Drum at 12,000' is smaller than some of the others (Mt. St. Elias coming in second behind Denali) but it is one of the most visible from the road and we felt like we were riding into a dream. 

Under the shadow of this volcano, we stopped for the night in Glennallen, at the best ( and only) hotel in town, the Caribou Inn. After dinner at the Fireweed Grill, the best restaurant in town for the same reason, we sauntered over to our room, purifying ourselves with the untainted air of the mountains. 

How infinitesimal the wonders of nature are. Every day we have been bombarded with geological and botanical miracles that abound in this state. Humbled by eons of work created by the Almighty Architect, we ride small in this world, gratified that we have been allowed these minuscule moments in time.

Back on Cook Inlet

Heading into Anchorage

The eerie Knik River

Fishing the Knik

The Wragells appear

Our road twists up into the mountains

The Matanuska Glacier

Glacier Glory

And more!

An original roadhouse

Mt. Drum

The only show in town!

7/29/16 Layover

A much needed rest and massage kept us in Girdwood today.

Nestled in a bowl of snow covered mountains, we passed the day on 2 legs instead of wheels. This small ski community was just our bag. Not trendy or Aspen-like, we felt at home wandering the streets, watching long haired boys on bikes bide the time til the first snow. 

Our accommodations are so cozy, we melted into them, cooking a big breakfast and then unwinding in front of the fire. Jules spent the day, looking at maps and plotting possible routes home. I wrapped up in a blanket and read.

In the evening, relaxation and therapy came to our door. A local woman brought her massage table to the condo and  unknotted us while the fire crackled. She also gave us some good tips and new roads for riding home through BC.

Tomorrow we take off again, perhaps to Valdez, depending on the weather. This break from the road was a necessary one. As the days added up, so did the kinks in our shoulders and backs. A warm fire, a do-nothing day and the massage have revitalized us. We are ready to "Get our motor runnin' and head out on the highway, looking for adventure, in whatever comes our way..." Not sure if we are wild, but we've definitely been reborn.

Good day for a fire

Cabin in the bowl

We're so pretty

Mountain man

Alaskan flowers

And yet another moose!

I kissed a bear!

Lunch

Shopping

7/28/16 Deja View

 A new day, a new direction, a new view. 

Rain dripped sullenly outside our room this morning, and we prolonged our departure. Finally suited up to the max, we crunched out onto the road. A short side trip took us over the Anchor River and to the point, searching for the eagles that frequent this area. No eagles today, but riding along the river provided us with great scenery and a break in the clouds.

As we headed north, the sun worked its magic and all that was shrouded yesterday was exposed. The Kenai River was greener, the mountains more vivid and oh my - blue sky. Our timing was perfect as there was less traffic on this well traveled two lane highway, the only land route to the rivers and Homer. Most of the RVs were well on their way and we took wing through the mountains. 

A great day for a picnic, we snaked our way back into a sparsely populated campground to find a table  enclosed by woodland. A leisurely lunch was ended quickly by twigs snapping loudly behind us. Ever aware of bears, we packed our bag, grabbed our bear deterrent and headed for the bike. Zipping away, we breathed a sigh of relief. Maybe a moose, maybe a caribou, maybe a bear- we weren't about to hang around and find out!

The Seward Highway shocked us again with its beauty, presenting a whole new array of "Wow". As we drew closer to Anchorage, we began to get city- twitchy, so we peeled off Route 1 at Girdwood, onto the Alyeska Highway, a dead end that brought us home for the night. A small ski resort town offered us a condo complete with fireplace. Conveniently located across the street from the mercantile, we were able to shop for dinner and cook in. Relishing this respite from motels and dining out, we ate privately, drank wine and curled in front of the fire until dark.

A day of sun with a backdrop of dramatic beauty left us brimming with joy. As we slowly watched the embers of our fire and our day exhaust themselves, a rush of gratitude for all that has been and all that is yet to come,  blanketed us for the night.

And then there was sun

The turquoise Kenai

A new perspective

So green from the rain

And more

Rain still hung out in the wings

Home!

7/27/16 Half Way!

The magic of Alaska put a spell on us again today.

The Seward Highway, a path through oceans, mountains and glaciers, drew us south. Enraptured at each turn by eye and mouth opening vistas, we watched in awe as more wondrous sights emerged. Heavy cloud cover prevented photo ops at many points, but the personal impact of all this glory was so monumental, it will be engraved on our memories forever. 

Into the Kenai Peninsula, we followed forested roads with a few appearances of mountains and goats. Waterfalls oozed down to us and fireweed flourished everywhere, lighting up this gray day. 

Cooper Landing, a sporty settlement complete with an Orvis store, headed us toward fishing heaven. Anglers bunched up on the shoreline through Sterling and Soldotna along the Kanai and Russian rivers, hoping to snag some trout or salmon. The few fishermen we talked to had little luck. I got the itch to toss a fly, but we are on a different kind of journey, searching for adventure on the road.

Out of the woods, we sailed to the coast of the Cook Inlet and down to the Halibut Capital of the World, Homer. A charming fishing village, tourist-ized because of its incredible location, sucked us in as we rose over the mountain road to witness a scene from National Geogtaphic. The bay, crowded with fishing boats was encapsulated by an array of heart-stopping snow capped mountains. Entranced, we rode through town and out onto "The Spit", a narrow appendix of land protruding into the ocean. Tiny shops, many on stilts, lure shoppers to this spot.

 At Land's End, we stopped, kissed, reflected on our trip so far, turned Rascal north and headed toward home. We have gone as far south in Alaska as we can ride and now we will face into what we have only seen in the rear view mirrors. Experience has taught us that the old way in reverse is a new way and we are always amazed at what has been going on behind our backs. 

So, as we rest in Anchor Point, the western most location in the North American highway system, our glass is not half empty or full. Every day is a new drink, and it seems like the well will never run dry.

The Seward Highway

Clouds cover much 

The view is still breathtaking

The sun broke onto this beauty

Fireweed and waterfalls

Kenai

Anglers

Beautiful Homer

A boat graveyard

Half way

Shops at Homer

Leaving Homer - back view