Leaving Buckshot Betty's in Beaver Creek (does the name of a restaurant with cabins get any better than that?), we headed into the stretch of road that last week gave us our first lesson in roughing it on the Alcan. But lately, Jules and Rascal have been schooled well in the art of riding gravel, rocks and mud, so they handled the 50 miles of road construction in fair weather with ease. I also have been taught the ways of these roads and leaned back and enjoyed the scenery.
Yes, there was scenery today. Unlike our northern jaunt here in the rain, when our heads were bowed to the gods of weather and road construction, wrapped in fog and mist, today, the world opened up. And the dramatic scene that played before us was worthy of any critic's praise. For most of the day, we followed the St. Elias Range.
Miles of mountainous sidelines shouldered us in. While Jules and Rascal again wrestled the worst stretch of road we have ever ridden, I ogled the landscape. What a show.
Long stops at construction sites made us a new friend and reacquainted us with old ones. The flagmen always signal the bikes to come to the front of the line, so we don't have to eat dust. Today we ran into a couple whose paths have crossed ours several times on this trip. We also met a young Brit who sailed a boat from Japan with his friend to Homer, bought a used dual sport bike in Anchorage 6 days earlier (he had never ridden before) and was on his way to meet up with his friend in California. Ah youth! Meeting up with these folks helped to pass the 15 to 30 minute waits, but it did not help us accomplish the road work we had planned for the day.
And then the St. Elias Icefield happened. Lake Kluane, that had been a shadow in the fog on our northern route, busted out with its true colors. Sapphire water surrounded by peaks sporting glacial jewelry dazzled us. Kluane hosted our picnic today and it was a gem.
As the road curved around the lake, dust rose from the dry section of its bed, riding us into what felt like the mists of Avalon. As the mist cleared, the ice fields again came into focus, grew in magnitude and chilled us with their elegance. For miles we were encased in the magnificence of the St. Elias mountains, and they created a memory that could never be pasted in an album - pure sensuality.
Settling in Haines Junction, we watched the sun and clouds play over yet another glacier shadowing our room for the night. We had planned to travel further today, but construction bogged us down fortuitously, because just look at where we landed.
Our ride out to Beaver Creek in the rain was a tense and long one. Today, on the return, the hours flew by, the construction was doable and we were treated to even more glory from the North. It's amazing what a little sunshine in your life can do.
Our cabin
A sunny lake
St. Elias - what we couldn't see before.
I look concerned!
Blue, blue Lake Kluane
Our picnic spot - yes we had our bear spray
On the shore
The man of the lake
The road curves into the mist
Avalon
Misty
Ice fields abound
So you know you're in Haines Junction
A room with a view
Cleaning the dirt off the running lights, so a least we can be seen. What a dirty Rascal!
Dinner with Elias
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